If we didn’t know better, we might have thought we were in Salzburg or Tuscany. That’s how we felt standing in front of the castle known as Lovrečina Castle, located about 5 kilometers from Vrbovec, halfway between Križevci and Čazma.
No sooner had we parked and stepped onto the castle grounds than a young man with a cautious gaze approached us and asked where we were from. I replied that the better question might be where he was from. As it turned out, he was from Kosovo. He wasn’t the only foreigner here, but he certainly wasn’t a tourist. A few more young men lingered in the courtyard, their glances curious but reserved.
That’s one of the many unique things about this castle: today, it serves as a rehabilitation commune. But let’s start from the beginning…
Lovrečina Castle, Then and Now
Once a medieval fortress, the site evolved into a castle first mentioned in 1540. It was built by Ivan Gezthy (Gesti), lord of the Lovrečina and Kalnik estates.
As history tends to go, the castle passed through many hands over the centuries. Among its more notable stewards were the noble families of Drašković and Gregorijanec.
Fans of Croatian literature might recognize the Gregorijanec name from Zlatarevo Zlato, the beloved 19th-century novel by August Šenoa. Zagreb’s own Romeo and Juliet were Dora Krupićeva and Pavao Gregorijanec, the latter being the son of a greedy Medvedgrad feudal lord. Practically every man in the Gregorijanec family falls for Dora, and the story spirals when the deranged patriarch kills his own wife. If that melodrama doesn’t tempt you to read the book, perhaps these juicy 19th-century curses will: “May misery and hunger raise him, may sorrow and plague follow him, may the earth devour him, the grave spit out his bones, and the wind scatter his ashes.” Or: “May the plague eat you” and “Cursed be I.” Glorious.
Back to history: the castle later served as the filming location for Kanarinčeva ljubovca in 1988, another work inspired by Šenoa.
Though heavily damaged during 18th-century peasant uprisings, the castle was beautifully restored in the late 19th century in a rich historicist style. Its side towers even resemble chess rooks, don’t they?
In 1911, French marquis Eugène de Piennes left the estate to the Sisters of Mercy, with one condition: it had to serve the public good and aid the poor.
The Sisters founded a Domestic School for Rural Women here—the first of its kind in Croatia—at a time when women were joining the workforce and, allegedly, forgetting the art of homemaking. Old newspaper clippings still echo among students today: “They’ve neglected the kitchen, forgotten how to sew, and now they head off to work in the morning and return like guests to their own homes.” No wonder, they said, the divorce rate was on the rise!
Still, many great-grandmothers fondly remember learning to cook here. The Sisters also opened an orphanage, and the historian Dr. Josip Buturac served as the monastery’s spiritual guide until his death.
Philatelists may know the castle too: in 2019, Croatian Post featured Lovrečina in its series of stamps celebrating Croatia’s most beautiful castles.
Where roses and redemption grow
You might have the same thought we did: how has this breathtaking castle remained under the radar, overshadowed by the likes of Trakošćan or Veliki Tabor? Show someone a photo of Lovrečina and they might guess it was snapped somewhere in Italy.
Today, the castle is home to the Cenacolo Community, a rehabilitation commune for men recovering from addiction. Lovrečina Castle isn’t open to the public, though visits may be arranged by appointment.
Cenacolo has operated in Croatia for more than three decades, across several cities. It was founded in 1983 by Mother Elvira, often called the “nun of addicts”, inspired by young people whose despair led them into addiction, gambling, or deep psychological distress.
Some visitors describe arriving unannounced and being warmly welcomed, given a walk through the gardens by the residents. Any gesture of kindness is appreciated. The community lives by a rhythm of prayer and cultivation, reflected in the immaculate grounds. Others say they weren’t let in without prior notice. We found ourselves somewhere in the middle. 🙂
It was a Tuesday, and we stopped by on a whim. Parking nearby, we admired the building from afar until a young man approached us. He kindly offered a stroll around the grounds, where we greeted other residents tending to the garden. After a short and pleasant chat, an older gentleman gently appeared and, with quiet authority, escorted us back to our car. 😂
So if you want to be sure, it’s best to call ahead.
The castle’s current use has stirred mixed opinions. Some lament that such a cultural gem is not open to tourists. Others are moved by the fact that it serves a higher purpose.
The latter view seems to prevail. Considering how many Croatian castles have decayed into nothingness, who’s to say Lovrečina wouldn’t have joined them without Cenacolo?
Wishing them all the best on their journey to recovery…
