It’s the dog days of summer, and I’m lying in the shade of a cherry tree beside the ruins of an ancient Roman town. I’m not a toga-clad Roman from a fresco, lounging by a bath and catching grapes with my mouth – but I can try to revive hedonism in a Pannonian key. I grab a fallen cherry from the ground and notice an inscription on the fence: IGNAVIS SEMPER FERIAE SUNT. For the lazy, every day is a holiday.
At least I wasn’t lazy when it came to getting on my bike – in 30°C (86°F) heat – and riding out to the small village of Ščitarjevo near Velika Gorica. Long ago, this was the site of the splendid Roman town of Andautonia.
Although the Roman Empire stretched as far as Romania and the Black Sea, its paved streets here still carry a whiff of the Mediterranean. You could call it a kind of “poor man’s seaside holiday,” set not on the coast but in the flatlands along the Sava River.
All Roads Lead to Rome
The Roman town of Andautonia thrived from the 1st to the 4th century, stretching about one kilometer (0.6 miles) north–south and 400 meters (1,300 feet) east–west. A Roman state road to Siscia (today’s Sisak, once a major Roman military and administrative center) ran right past it.
When I said it was splendid, I didn’t mean in the proportions of an amphitheater – but still, it’s nothing to sniff at. Not much of it remains today, yet the excavations and Roman pathways you see hint at the wealth of this once-bustling town: Andautonia had its own administration, stone-paved streets, sewage system, public buildings, a necropolis, a temple, and even suburban villas.
I could say, as a compliment to the Romans: “Well, Ščitarjevo doesn’t even have some of these things today!” – but that would be pushing it. Ščitarjevo, like half the world, still lives off Roman ingenuity: ideas they introduced or perfected in architecture, engineering, technology, and beyond.
Consciously or not, we lean on Latin wisdom, stroll down streets like Zadar’s Kalelarga laid out in Roman times, and build with cement that’s a cocktail from the Roman recipe book. We tattoo Roman numerals, cheer in stadiums that still follow the oval form and tiered seating of the Roman era, and we grew up with Croatian pop bands flaunting Roman names – Colonia, for instance. 😀 Open a tin of pâté and out pops a little soldier with a red plume on his helmet.
That they were the power players of their age is clear from any map of Europe and the Mediterranean, which they dominated. The inhabitants of Andautonia were mostly Romanized Pannonians, who had adopted the Roman way of life. So, let’s take a look at what remains in this romantic Posavina backyard.
The Contents of the Andautonia Archaeological Park
At the entrance to the Archaeological Park Andautonia, you’re greeted by a little Roman (Ave!) who points toward the wide excavation site sunk into the ground. It’s a total contrast to the greenery around it: an ancient labyrinth of white stone.
With a little imagination, you can reconstruct the ruins – think of the architecture on some Adriatic islands and suddenly stone columns, arcades, bathhouses, and floor mosaics rise before your eyes. There are also panels with 3D visualizations of the town that show more clearly just how grand it once looked.
What you see under the glass dome is a wooden well, used before the bath complex was built. To its left, beside a cherry tree, are reliefs discovered during the excavations.
For example, the relief of the goddess Nemesis. She was believed to govern human destiny, and later came to be associated with retribution. From her name comes the word nemesis – revenge or payback, especially in the sense of righting an injustice.
Next comes an altar to the river deity Savus – the benevolent spirit and protector of navigation. But the Sava wasn’t always benevolent: in the early 2nd century, it flooded these plains and caused damage to Andautonia itself.
The Greeks were the first to notice that the Sava was not a branch of the Danube but a river of its own. They gave it a special role: to pour nectar and feed ambrosia to Zeus, so that he might remain immortal and divine.
In Ščitarjevo, excavations in 1989 revealed painted walls. They are believed to have decorated burial chambers, and their motifs were surprisingly cheerful: dancers and musicians from the entourage of Dionysus. YOLO, Roman style. Another highlight is the so-called “poor man’s grave,” where archaeologists found a modest pot with the deceased’s bones, a lamp, and a few coins.
The site today is an open-air museum – information panels along the walls explain the ruins, offer historical notes, and even slip in a few Latin maxims. Some of the content is “serious,” aimed at adults, while other parts are adapted for children with animated characters. And yes, you can actually step down and walk “through” the town at designated points.
Behind the excavation site, you’ll find a Roman kitchen – set on the edge, just as it was in Roman houses, to reduce the risk of fire. There’s a hearth and a bread oven, along with Latin foodie sayings and tidbits: the poor ate bread, porridge, and vegetables (meat was rare), while the wealthy indulged in banquets straight out of a movie. A broad wooden table in the shade can serve as a spot for sandwiches and coffee, or for practicing Roman numerals as if you were back in school (the cheat sheet is on the wall).
All in all, it’s a fun spot to visit – especially with kids, who can play, read quirky facts, or pose for photos in those face-in-hole boards (your chance at a Roman portrait). From what I remember from history class gossip, every Roman citizen was entitled to a portrait—and this one’s yours.
In spring, the Days of Andautonia are usually held here, with workshops, exhibitions, and games: Little Archaeologists, Roman games, writing on wooden tablets, learning Roman recipes… In recent years, it hasn’t taken place due to the pandemic, but you can always check with the Velika Gorica Tourist Board to see what’s on.
Kreiraj izlet: Što vidjeti i gdje jesti u Ščitarjevu i Velikoj Gorici?
Since the site itself is relatively small (not insignificant, but let’s just say it’s no day trip to Carthage), it’s nice to combine it with nearby attractions if you’re planning a one-day outing.
If you’re on a bike – the sky’s the limit. The whole surrounding area, especially along the Sava, is perfect for cycling: mostly flat and easy, with romantic rural landscapes and traditional Turopolje oak houses (typical wooden homes of the Turopolje region) scattered along the way. There’s also a lovely rest stop by the river at the floating raft in the village of Vrbovo Posavsko (a small riverside village near Velika Gorica). If you’re coming from Zagreb, it will take up almost a whole day, but it’s worth it.
Ščitarjevo and Velika Gorica: What to See and Visit?
Right across from Andautonia (literally a one-minute walk) stands the Church of St. Martin, and in front of it the little Ščitarjevo Ethno House.
Behind the church there’s another, smaller excavation site – it looks a bit neglected and isn’t much to write home about, but if you’re in the mood to play archaeological treasure hunter…
Visiting the town of Velika Gorica: Turopolje Museum (local history and cultural heritage museum)
Donja Lomnica: Modić-Bedeković Manor House (historic nobleman’s residence)
Lukavec (right next to Donja Lomnica): Lukavec Castle (15th-century fortified castle)
If you’ve set out from Zagreb and are heading back, you can stop by the charming Savica Lakes along the way.
Ščitarjevo and Velika Gorica: Where to Eat?
- Buffet Zrinski (Črnkovec, 3 minutes’ drive from Ščitarjevo)
- Mon Ami (Velika Gorica)
- Konoba Bukara (Velika Gorica – traditional tavern-style)
- Bistro & Catering Babriga (Velika Gorica)
- Bistro Kaktus (Velika Gorica)
- Pivnica Turopolje (Velika Gorica – local beer house)
A little further out, but also worth it:
- Turopoljski dom (Odra)
- Stafa’s (Buzin)
